What supplies do you need for a Mini Rex rabbit?
with compact body type and dense, short, plush fur.
They are incredibly soft, and amazingly sweet-tempered… at least as a rule.
If you’re considering a pet rabbit, you should definitely check out this breed. And if you’re checking out this breed, you should definitely know what items you need to help it to thrive under your care.
Here’s a quick list to help.
Mini Rex rabbits weigh about 4 pounds, which means they must have at least three square feet of floor space.
However, a rabbit’s needs vary with its age and stage: a junior Mini Rex will need less space than a doe and her growing litter.
In any case, the rabbit must have enough space to stretch out completely when it lies down.
In fact, a cage too small will not only cause discomfort, but could even cause muscular and skeletal injury!
On the other hand, bunnies can be difficult to catch in cages that are too big.
The minimum sized cage for an average sized adult Mini Rex would be an . They do better, though, in a
because they have more room to stretch out and exercise. These plushy
bunnies do have a fondness for food, and will get chubby if you’re not careful.
So in addition to a cage of sufficient size, Mini Rex should get out for exercise at least a few times a week.
Whatever your Mini Rex rabbit’s cage size, there’s one accessory it must have: a . Most rabbits can live on wire floors with no problem.
But because Mini Rex have unusually short plush fur, they are susceptible to pododermatitis if they sit too much right on the wire. That’s a fancy name for when the fur wears away on the hind feet and the skin cracks.
Better known as sore hocks, this can cause infection and bleeding, and is very hard to beat once a case has developed.
You can soothe the skin with healing ointment, such as , but the fur may not grow back, causing an endless cycle of breaking and bleeding.
When it comes to sore hocks, prevention is key.
Pro tip: Premium Rabbit Supplies is running a sale on EZ-Mats!
You can only access the sale page through this special link, so check it out today!
Pack of Twelve:
Mini Rex do very well in a small
(not to be confused with a Dwarf sized carrier, which is could be called extra small). Although this seems very small for the rabbit to feel comfortable in, the size does serve a purpose. In a carrier too big, a rabbit could easily be spooked during transport causing him to rip out a toenail, fracture a limb, or even break their back and die. However, you still want the carrier to be just big enough for the rabbit to lie down, which makes the
slots perfect for a Mini Rex.
Mini Rex don’t have any special needs when it comes to feeding and watering.
Like all breeds, they have a penchant for tipping their food bowls over whenever possible, so it’s a good idea to get one that .
Mini Rex can drink out of bowls or bottles.
If you’re not sure which would be better for your bunny, check out this article that .
Although the Rex coat makes them more susceptible to sore hocks, one nice feature is that it almost never requires brushing.
All you have to do is moisten your hand and run it through the fur to pull out the dead hairs.
In fact, frequent brushing can destroy a Mini Rex coat.
However, like all breeds, they need their toenails trimmed regularly.
Enjoy your Mini Rex!
I got to share with you the bottom-half of my top ten list of favorite rabbitry supplies. Now I’m even more excited, because I get to talk about the top half of the list! And it starts with…
5. . Ten years ago, almost everyone used clamp tattoo kits to earmark their rabbit. But once the battery-operated pen came on the scene, rabbit breeders flocked to grab one. Handheld electric pens make tattooing so much easier, both on the handler and the rabbit. (In fact, it has many advantages over clamps.) And I’m convinced that the KBtatts brand battery operated tattoo pen is one of the best in the market. The complete kit comes with a replacement needle, ink, ink wells, a cleaning kit, and more. Check it out!
4. . I raise a dwarf breed, so naturally dwarf sized cages are my favorite. But all of them in the “Supreme Rabbit Home” line are fantastic. They come complete with a slide-out drop tray, so you don’t have to buy that separately in order to stack your cages. And they’re decked out with all the trimmings, including urine guards, door trim.
3. One time my dad built me some wood nest boxes. That was very sweet of him…but the boxes were too bulky to fit in the cage door. I love the little steel ones. They are so cute and compact, and yet they are even more functional than wood boxes, because rabbits can’t chew them, and they’re so much easier to clean. They have removable wood floors, so if the floor wears out, you can replace it, while the box itself lasts indefinitely. If I get more breeding does, I’ll have to get more of these boxes. In fact, maybe I should ask for some for Christmas…
2. Again cute, compact, and functional my three words for this carrier. It’s so much more convenient and so much cheaper than buying three single holes. And if you show rabbits, it’s also extremely necessary.
1. I know, I’m always talking about how much I love EZ-crocks. But I don’t know what I’d do without them. I haven’t discovered any other dish that’s nearly impossible for rabbits to tip, but simple for the caretaker to remove. They’re sturdy plastic that holds up in summer and winter, and they are a smooth bowl shape that doesn’t harbor fines or algae. Plus, they come in three handy sizes. Win, win, win!
By the way, you can buy all these supplies and others from our recommend rabbit supplier at .
Bonus round My top Favorite Rabbit Books
Okay…as a bonus, here are my top favorite . I didn’t want to include these in the top-ten list because they’re not really equipment, but good information is essential to any rabbit project’s success. So real quick, here are my top three recommendations in books you should check out (not in any particular order):
If you raise rabbits for show, you’ll need to know what’s in this book. If you are competing in 4-H or Youth contests such as Showmanship, Breed ID, or Royalty, you doubly need to know what’s in this book. And if you are preparing to become a judge or registrar, you absolutely need to have a copy. This is the official standard against which rabbits are judged in the United States.
Reading websites is fine, but you’re not going to get as complete info as if you purchase a book such as the excellent Raising Rabbits 101 which lays out the details of rabbit care and breeding information. It’s written by a professional, one who has put the sweat and tears into making a rabbitry work not just produce rabbits, but produce winning rabbits. Check it out.
Ever hear your friends talking about “marten patterned himmie” and wonder what on earth it means? Ever wonder what colors you’ll get when you breed Bugs and Fluffy, or how to produce a certain color you’ve been hoping for? Ever wondered how to get better color quality that will help you achieve new heights on the show table? Here’s the book for you. “About Bunny Colors” spells out the essentials of rabbit color genetics in a way that YOU can understand. Many readers have commented that when no other genetics resource made sense to them, this book opened the door to mastering rabbit color genetics.
There are a lot of rabbit supplies that I like. There are a lot of equipment items I find useful. But there are a few items that I am especially keen on. A few that, when I stop and think about it, I realize my rabbit keeping venture would be a lot more difficult if I didn’t have. A few that I cross my fingers hoping they’ll not discontinue. A few that make me want to jump on twitter, or write a blog post to tell my friends about how cool these products are. So let’s go for it!
10. . Some people prefer galvanized J-feeders, because they sift fines better and come in more sizes. But I’m sticking with the EZ-feeder. I love how it’s made of sturdy plastic, stronger than cheap plastic feeders you might find at a tractor supply. It hooks on to the cage more securely than the galvanized feeders I’ve used. Also, unlike the metal feeders, it doesn’t have sharp edges, doesn’t have crevices for feed dust to gather in, and doesn’t rust.
9. . Using a high-quality bedding in your drop trays is worth the effort. After the hard work of cleaning trays, it’s so rewarding to smell a sweet rabbitry thanks to the fresh shavings. There are a lot of good rabbit beddings out there, but Carefresh is something special. It’s totally free of dyes, inks, and oils, and it’s even heated before packaging to kill any bugs that might be heated in it. Carefresh absorbs both moisture and odor, as all great beddings should.
8. . It might seem like an odd one to land on the list, but I love this little dude! If you build your own rabbit cages, a pair of J-clip removers will be one of your best buddies. At least, it will if you’re like me, and accidentally stick the J-clips on in all the wrong places. Of course, you’ll also need his twin, the
in the first place.
7. . Most rabbit owners like to take their bunnies out of the cages for a chance to romp. This rabbit-safe harness and stretchy stroller leash allows you to broaden your bunny’s horizons by taking him for a walk. It’s also essential if you plan to compete in rabbit hopping competitions which are growing in popularity. Don’t use a cat harness for rabbits, because it can put too much pressure on the rabbit’s neck. Instead use this comfort harness that’s designed with the bunny’s safety in mind.
6. . The girl I bought my first rabbit from was very sweet and knowledgeable, but she told me that human fingernail clippers would work fine on my rabbits’ nails. Um, that wasn’t the case. Human nail clippers are likely to break rabbit nails off higher than you meant to cut, because they pinch the nail instead of slice it. Guillotine-style pet nail trimmers are faster and less stressful to use, slicing the nail off cleanly instead of snapping it. Use these, and you’ll have less need for styptic powder.
Keep an eye out for part 2 of this post tomorrow to catch my top five favorite equipment items. And what about you? Which things in your rabbitry make your life easier? I would be interested to hear your response in the comments section below…
It’s hard to do anything the first time even to buy rabbit equipment. What sounded like a simple shopping trip can turn into an overwhelming experience as you realize how much rabbit equipment is available and how many choices you can make. What supplies do you really need? What accessories do you want? How do you choose the right brands? This quick shopping guide can help you get started.
First things First The Cage
The most important thing you buy for your rabbit is its cage. Even if you plan to house-train your pet bunny, he needs a cage that he can call his home and shelter. You’ll have the choice between wire and solid bottomed cages. In most cases, go for wire. Rabbits have thick fur on their footpads and don’t mind living on wire floors, and it is actually much healthy for them, since they won’t be sitting in their own urine and feces. The
line of cages comes complete with a tray that slides underneath to catch the droppings.
You also need to pick a cage size. A pet rabbit needs about 1 square foot of cage space per pound of body weight. An
works great for single rabbits of dwarf breeds, and a
is ample size for a large bunny.
Taking your rabbit home in a cardboard box isn’t safe or secure. You should use a special carrier made for transporting bunnies.
Rabbit Feeding Equipment
Everybunny’s got to eat, right? There are two common ways to provide rabbits with pellets. One is the . This includes a tray that sits inside the rabbit’s cage to hold the pellets, and a hopper that sits outside the cage to hold an extra amount of feed. J-feeders are most commonly used by breeders who have several rabbits, because they can be quickly filled from outside the cage. The disadvantages to J-feeders are that they can be difficult to clean, and you need to cut a hole in the side of your cage for them to work. If you have a lop rabbit, make sure to buy a
to allow him to eat from it comfortably.
The alternative to a J-feeder is a crock or dish. This is a good choice for any pet bunny, as long as you get one like the
that attaches to the cage so your rabbit can’t tip it over.
Rabbit Watering Equipment
The big debate about rabbit watering equipment is bottles vs. bowls. Water bottles can hold more water at a time, and keep it cleaner. However, they can be a hassle to fill and some will drip. Most rabbit owners try both bottles and crocks and decide for themselves which works best for their bunnies and lifestyle. There is a good selection of both
and bowls at PremiumRabbits.com.
Is it really cost effective to build your own rabbit cages?
Lots of rabbit owners like to build their own cages. There’s a real sense of accomplishment in seeing the cage you built all finished and ready for your new pet. But, you might wonder, is it really cost-effective to build your own cages? Well, that depends.
can make about 6-8 rabbit cages, depending on their dimensions. If you price a roll of wire against the price of 6-8 pre-built rabbit cages, it looks pretty good. It definitely seems like you can save money by buying the wire, clips, and trays separately and assembling them yourself.
But there’s a hitch: You need more than one type of wire to build a rabbit cage. Most rabbit cages are built of 1″ x 2″ mesh wire on the sides and roof of the cage, but that’s not tight enough to support rabbits’ feet. The floor of the cage must be a much tighter mesh: ” x “. That means, unfortunately, that to build even one rabbit cage, you need TWO types of wire. Add a second 100ft roll of floor wire to your shopping cart, and suddenly the bottom line doesn’t look so good anymore.
But don’t worry, there’s a way around.
Pre-cut Floors make All the Difference
At PremiumRabbits.com, you don’t have to spend over $150 on a roll of floor wire. The solution: Buy your roll of side-wire, and then order the floors you want separately. We’ll send you a piece of “x 1” wire cut to the right dimensions and instead of $150, you’ll pay under $10! Now you can have fun designing your own cages and putting them together, while still keeping the costs down.
A Double Function Replacement Floors
Our pre-cut floors can also replace rusted floors on older cages that you purchased.
Note: Other floor sizes may be available in addition to those listed on the
website. If you need a size that you don’t see here, just ask if we have it!
Rabbits don’t need to have 24/7 access to food (in fact, that’s not even good for them!) but they should have constant access to good, clean water. Since water bottles can drip and be difficult to fill, many people turn to bowls or dishes commonly called crocks as simple ways to offer rabbits water.
But some rabbit dishes are definitely better choices than others. It sounds like a simple task to pick out a water dish, but you might be surprised at how much there is to consider.
The description of a good rabbit water crock can sound like the description of a super hero. It’s gotta be spill-poof, freeze-resistant, resilient if dropped, sanitary, washable, the right size, and made of safe and sturdy material.
Being Spill-proof is one of the most important features of a good crock. Rabbits seem to delight in tipping over their dishes if that’s at all possible. They can tip surprisingly heavy crocks so just weight isn’t enough. The bowl has to actually attach to the side of the cage if it’s to be entirely spill proof. Thankfully, rabbit cage dealers know all about this and have developed some great solutions like the
Freeze Resistance is another important qualification if you keep your rabbits outside. Rabbits can live in freezing weather just fine, but their ceramic crocks are much more likely to break when the weather gets cold. If you’re going to be using crocks outside in the winter, you’ll want to use hard plastic or metal dishes that you can easily bring inside to thaw. (Check out the
if you need a metal dish for occasional use.)
When buying any rabbit equipment, always consider sanitation. Can the crock you’re looking at be wiped out daily with a clean cloth to keep it fresh? Does it have any rough edges or deep corners that could hold dirt or algae? Is it dishwasher-safe? Not everyone will want to run their rabbit dishes through the dishwasher, but if that’s cool with you, the plastic dishes from PremiumRabbits.com are completely dishwasher-safe!
The final consideration is size. Even when you pick out a style of water crock you like, it will probably be available in more than one size. A 10-ounce dish will hold all the food or water that a single average-size rabbit needs in a day, and a larger dish will just collect debris. But if you have a giant bunny, or two rabbits living together in a cage, you might want to jump up to the 20-ounce size. Smaller dishes, such as the , are too small to provide your rabbit’s sole water supply, but are super handy to keep around for offering treats or supplements.
But what about does with litters? You might think that female rabbits and their litter of growing babies should have big dishes, but that’s not always the case. Baby rabbits can drown in large water bowls, and will climb in and soil large food dishes. So you’re actually better off using more smaller dishes with a doe and her babies.
If it’s your first time shopping for rabbit equipment, you might be surprised and how many decisions there are to make. It’s not as simple as just buying a water bottle; you have a choice of different brands, sizes, and nozzle types. This guide can help you select the best kind for your beloved pet.
What size water bottle does a pet rabbit need?
They say that the average rabbit will drink five ounces (5 fl oz) of water per day, but of course this varies a lot by the season and the individual. Also, you needed to make allowances for water that will be wasted. Almost all water bottles will drip for a little while after a rabbit drinks from them, as the nozzle doesn’t seal instantly. Some rabbits like to lean up against the nozzle and let the water run over their bodies. Considering this, it’s important to select a bottle that offers quite a bit more water than your rabbit will actually drink.
PremiumRabbits.com a great place to buy rabbit products online offers water bottles in several different sizes. The
works great as a take-along water bottle for one-day trips, but it’s not big enough for everyday use. The 16-ounce and 32-ounce bottles are the best for daily use for single rabbits. Which size you select should depend on how often you are available to check on your rabbit and refill the bottle if necessary. If two or more rabbits share a cage, you will definitely want a bottle that’s at least 32 ounces, or maybe even the giant
Are glass or plastic bottles better for rabbits?
Most rabbit water bottles are plastic, and they work fine. But if you want to bump up the class a little bit, you can try the
by Lixit. Some users report that glass water bottles seal a bit better than plastic ones, and thus are less likely to drip. Also available at PremiumRabbits.com, these bottles are topped off with a cute plastic “floating turtle” indicator to help you see the water level at a glance.
Is there more I should consider when buying a rabbit water bottle?
Actually there’s a lot more things to think about! One of the most important is how the bottle is filled. On most water bottles, the nozzle unscrews from the bottle, so that in order to fill it, you have to take the entire bottle off the cage. This isn’t always the case, though! The
has a flip-open lid, so that you can leave it attached to the cage and quickly fill it with a pitcher. The one disadvantage to this system is that you need to make sure the lid is tightly closed when you’re done filling it, or the bottle won’t seal and may drip.
Before making your final selection, you may also want to look at the way the bottle attaches to the cage: how securely it stays, and how easy it is to remove. Thankfully, the one thing you won’t have to worry about when buying water bottles is the cost, since all of the bottles (at least at ) are very reasonably priced.
When children show their rabbits in 4-H, the judge will often ask them, “What is the most important thing you can give your rabbit?” Though several answers may come to mind, the one that judges are looking for is water.
We all know the importance of water to human health, and rabbits need it just as much. If a rabbit is not able to drink, it will not eat either, and quickly fade into serious condition. Since you probably can’t visit your rabbit every hour of the day, you need to be certain your equipment will guarantee him constant access to fresh water.
Water Bottles vs. Crocks Pros and Cons
Breeders who have many rabbits will often use an automatic watering system, where a network of plastic tubes carries water to each bunny’s cage. But for pet rabbits,
and bowls are much more practical.
Bowls that supply rabbits with water are commonly called . They can be made of metal, plastic, or ceramic. Crocks give you peace of mind because you know they won’t drip, and you know your rabbit will learn to drink out of them. If you keep rabbits outside in the winter, crocks are the best choice for water, because they won’t break when they freeze, and you can bring them inside to thaw. They are quick and easy to fill, quick and easy to clean, and inexpensive to replace.
On the other hand, water evaporates much more quickly in a crock than in a bottle. It can also become soiled with bedding, hay, or urine. In the summer, if left unchanged, it can also collect bugs or algae and nobody wants that. Most importantly, rabbits can (and will) tip over and play with their water dishes if they are not secured to the cage.
Overall, crocks are a very good way to supply your rabbit with fresh water…if the following points are met:
1. You clean the crock regularly
2. You change the water twice daily
3. You get a crock that clips to the cage.
Expert Tip: We recommend the , sold at Premium Rabbit Supplies, as the best rabbit water dish on the market.
If taking care of crocks sounds like a lot of work, you may prefer using
to provide your pet with water. Bottles usually only need to be refilled once per day. They keep water clear of dust, fungus, and debris. Also, bottles are better to travel with since they won’t slosh and spill in the car.
There are a few disadvantages to bottles, however. For one, they take a bit more effort to fill than crocks. They must be tied to the cage very tightly, or else a rabbit can pull it over from the inside or a passerby can knock it over from the outside. Almost all rabbits will adjust to a bottle eventually, but it can take a few days if your pet was previously used to a water dish. Finally, the biggest concern with water bottles is that some will drip. Always monitor bottles closely to make sure they are not leaking.
Expert Tip: The
at PremiumRabbits.com tend to be less likely to drip than plastic water bottles.
Both water bottles and crocks can be effective ways to provide your rabbit with water, but they both take a little managing. Most rabbit owners give both a try and end up settling on whichever one suits their bunnies and their lifestyles better.
This is the Official “Raising Rabbits Blog” run by the creators of . Authors of this blog include Aaron Webster from
and Ellyn from .
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